PC TRAINING

INTERVIEW COACH
Presentation
PC TRAINING

PC Training is a group of trainers whose aim is to support all climbers who have a training approach in achieving their objectives, from recreational climbing to the highest level.  

Their goals? Develop climbing training through different actions: coaching, training, popularization, training locations, training courses, research on training, etc. 

Their projects:

Open a training center in the Au Perchoir room (Crolles), with all the equipment any climber could dream of. 

Develop training workshops and training for climbers. 

PC Training shares their vision of climbing with us:

We are 3 trainers at the head of PC Training, Alexis, Antoine, Maëlle, who have been passionate about climbing for many years. We met during our Master’s studies in “Training and Optimization of Sports Performance” in Grenoble. 

We want to connect competent coaches with motivated climbers who are involved in their progression process. Little by little, our teams are growing: there are now 5 coaches! 

We are above all climbers and have been for a long time! It is a sport that fascinates us with its complexity, diversity and community. I think we wanted to become coaches to pass on this passion and our skills to help climbers. There are lots of things to develop in the climbing world and it’s very motivating.

Firstly, it started from the observation that there were many adult climbers who were looking to train and that they had difficulty finding a framework. Then we quickly realized that together we could have more resources to create beautiful projects. We also find that there are a lot of preconceived ideas and myths about climbing training, we are keen to provide reliable and sourced information to climbers to improve training in our sport.

Our goal is to offer each climber the most efficient training possible while keeping the balance with the pleasure of climbing, so that they can progress faster, perform better while reducing the risk of injury. For this we try to have an approach that is based both on scientific knowledge and our field experience. 

To adapt the training, we spend a lot of time identifying the strong points and weak points of each climber to determine the most relevant axes in relation to their objectives. To do this, we use the climbers' feelings, but one of our particularities is also to use physical tests which allow us to objectively and precisely quantify the qualities of each climber. 

Simple and basic things can go a long way: keeping pleasure at the center of your practice, varying your climbing supports, not relying only on your strengths and learning the basics of training organization. Finally, aim for regularity rather than wanting to do big weeks of training that you won't be able to maintain over time. 

Alexis: It was when I got feedback from the first climbers that I was training in 2021, seeing that they were passing levels in which they had been stuck for several years, and that pain which had been hanging around for several months were fading. I realized the enormous impact I could have.  

Antoine: What particularly drives me is this moment when we arrive in competitions with the climbers I coach: the emotions, the waiting, the tension, the desire to give the best afterwards a lot of preparation. And above all the feeling of accomplishment and the happiness of the climbers when it works, it makes each competition memorable. 

Maëlle: There is not one memory in particular that marked me, but what touches me the most is when the climbers I train are happy with their progress or when 'they achieved their goals 

Alexis: During the 2nd confinement we rented a house in a bouldering site with a group of friends (we were allowed to climb thanks to our studies). We were able to climb a lot and have a great time. That’s where I met Antoine. 

Antoine: One of the moments that had the most impact on me was perhaps when I arrived in STAPS in Grenoble and started climbing. My classmates were all already very strong at a solid level 8 or 9, I found that very impressive. One of them in particular, Nico, a legend of the basin, dragged me from the start to the most difficult cliffs of Grenoble and pushed me in my ways while I was still very afraid of climbing in head in 6. It showed me to what extent climbing is an inclusive sport and that at each level we have a challenge and we get support from friends. 

Maëlle: I think it’s the sequence of my first 8a, because it was unexpected. It was the last run of the trip just before leaving and I hadn't yet completed all the movements, and I managed to put in a run without errors, in a state of hyper concentration. It's really nice when everything goes well like that. 

A big place! Social networks are a great tool for sharing our knowledge with climbers, it’s free and it allows us to reach a lot of people. We try to regularly offer interesting content, whether quick content on Instagram or longer formats on YouTube.

We think that it is something that is very personal and that is different for each athlete, but the general idea is to be able to experience moments that make us vibrate, it can be surpassing oneself, having good times moments with friends, being healthier,...

It revolves a lot around climbing! A little computer science and skiing/mountaining from time to time. A climbing trip is also about all the good times that we spend outside of the cliff moments, at the campsite with friends, during the rest days.

Haha absolutely!  We are opening a training center at Le Perchoir (in Crolles) where there will be everything climbers dream of for training: a kilter board, a huge tilting spray wall, a modular slab, gullich, hangboards, physical preparation equipment , training services, … 

We also have other projects, for example workshops / training on training for climbers or a podcast with guests to discuss training.